Peru Part 4-1: Salkantay Trek (4D/3N)

Briefing on the night before the trek (2nd Dec):
This was when I was told I’m the only one who will be on the trek and I was given the option to join a local tour group or go on my own. It was an easy and difficult decision at the time since I’m happy to do it on my own yet there only be me and the guide. Thank goodness for Conceição from Bamba Experience in Cusco, walking me through the itinerary and had Junior come over to the meeting point to reassure and make sure that I’m comfortable with the arrangement. I didn’t know that night that this will turn out to be one of the best experiences in my life, both physical and spiritual.

Day 1 (3rd Dec) Cusco-Mollepata-Challacancha-Soraypampa:
Pick-up was early and greeted by Junior, a familiar face after the night before and I was at ease. We stopped a few times to pick up groceries along the way with Victoriano (the cook) and another lady who was travelling to Soraypampa to cook for the people working on the Bamba’s new campsite. One of the things I love about Peru is that there’s always something to see along the way no matter where you are travelling to and from. Junior was pointing out the mountains and the peaks with the directions that we are headed to.

The enjoyment for me was the stops we made to get the groceries and the conversations between Junior and the rest of the crews, which I confounded me because I know my Spanish is very basic and all I could pick up was the numbers and a few words. I asked Junior and he kindly explained that they were speaking mostly in Quechua and a bit of Spanish. It was melodic and mesmerising, listening to them conversing in Quechua and I’ve further learnt that it’s a language that for a long time only passed down from generations to generations through speaking, no written form of learning. I do hope that the language is preserved and will flourish over the years to come cos it’s a shame to lose such a beautiful language.

We stopped at Mollepata to pay the entrance fee and a quick morning break then head out to the start of the trek in Challacancha. I saw there was a group ahead of us and felt anxious that this is going to be hard for me because well, of everything. I knew I had to stop expecting myself to be able to trek like a vicuña that is used to the altitude and terrain. This first day was an easy three hour trek through the mountain side with 30 minutes uphill then flat all the way to Soraypampa with lots of crossing and some of them looks a bit dodgy.

Approaching one of those dodgy crossings he asked, ‘are you afraid of heights?’ and he then remembered that I rock climbed and said ‘of course not’. I asked him a question in return, ‘are you afraid of heights, falling or death?’, which is a more probing question to discern what exactly that a person is afraid of when it comes to being in high places. That got us talking and discussing for a while.

I get to know Junior a little bit more on the trek and he started showing me the flora and fauna of the land. The knowledge that the guy had in his head is astonishing and most from his childhood in the mountains growing up learning from grandparents about the land, which I still believe is one of the best ways to raise a child.

I could hardly peeled my eyes from the mountains, Humantay and Salkantay, surrounding us when we approached the basecamp. I would say that the place is a luxury with small open huts for tents and a large communal area for cooking and dining. I was happy and content, looking forward to sleep among the wonders of this earth we live in.

‘Lunch then we trek up to the lagoon and it’ll take about an hour and a half’, said Junior. Victoriano already performed his magic in the kitchen and served up the delicious lunch, then it was siesta before we head up to the lagoon for sunset. The trek up was gentle and it was a good training for the next day. My guess is that the guides use this as a gauge to see how fit their group is for the next day. The lagoon was tranquil and I was looking at the water reflecting the journey of my life thus far with the mountains as my witness, stacking the rocks as I recounted the blessings and grace that was bestowed upon me…I am happy. It felt like I’m finally home, where I belong.

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On the way down, I reminded myself and acknowledged how fortunate I am to be where I am. I was glad to have Junior as a guide, he was sharing his knowledge on the culture, tradition and heritage he grew up with and was happy to answer all my questions on the land, people and their believe system. During dinner, Junior reminded me to pick three rocks the next day to bring with me up to the highest point where he would show me the tradition and ritual of the people in the mountain.

The night sky was indescribable and the stars greeted me like old friends, spotting the familiar Orion and Taurus with the unmissable Mars. Freezing beautiful inspiring night, what more can I ask for in a place and time so perfect…ok, maybe a bit of warmth. Bamba was kind enough to lend me their sleeping bag, a warmer one than mine so I have no qualm. A thankful prayer to end the night and get ready for an early start uphill!

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