Peru Part 4-3: Salkantay Trek (4D/3N)

Day 3 (5th Dec) Challhuay-La Playa-Hydroelectric Station-Aguas Caliente:
‘It’s another long day tomorrow so we’re starting early’, said Junior the night before. He was managing my expectation because it was going to be a five hours hike weaving through the side of the forested mountain to get to our transport that will take us to La Playa. I was up for it and all I ask is if it’s going to be an Inka flat walk and he said, ‘Inka flat plus small uphill here and there’.

I love learning about the flora and fauna along the five-hour hike and teach me the Quechua name for some of them. When birds are around, Junior quietly pointed them out to me so that I get to spot them in the wild then show me what they are on his encyclopedia of birds on his phone. He was able to name the plants and their uses in the region. The whole experience reminded of the time when I was in brownies, girl guides and rangers, exploring and learning about the natural world. I was that young girl again, discovering my love for nature.

Junior recommended that I spend some time in one of the jungle village the next time I’m in Cusco region or Peru, so that I get to learn about the plants, animals and traditions from the people as well as the shaman. This trip sparked a lot of new travel ideas.

We arrived at La Playa, which used to be a beach but not anymore, and had the most luxurious lunch of the trip. Victoriano has pulled out all the stock (not that he was holding back) and the spread was a sight! We ate our fill and chill before packing up for the journey by car to the Hydroelectric Station for the next walking part of the day.

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From the Hydroelectric Station, it was another three hours walk (totally flat apart from the first 10 minutes) to Aguas Caliente or Machu Picchu town. About 20 minutes into the walk, Junior spotted the female Peruvian national bird (Andean cock-of-the-rock) and he said that it’s very rare to come actoss them. Well, with the horseshoe in my bag and lucky plant in my pocket, all we need is for one of us to sneeze three times and we might get lucky and spot a male (Google it, the male is stunning) but nope, neither of us sneezed enough times to bump up the luck scale.

The town was kind of an anticlimax and it was designed for tourist. We walked up the main street, Junior showed me where we’re meeting for dinner and helped me check in to the hotel. Nice private room with hot shower and cable TV, and the thought that came to mind was…I would trade all this in for the camp in Soraypampa. Convenience of the modern world is good but the feeling of being in the mountain trumps it.

We met up for dinner, which is the last meal that we’re going to have together and Junior briefed me on the plans for the next day. He handed me the bus ticket for going up to Machu Picchu and the train ticket to Ollantaytambo. I was glad that I didn’t have to endure the bus ride all the way from Hydroelectric Station, which is the alternative.

A good night sleep for another early start tomorrow to catch the first bus up.

Day 4 (6th Dec) Machu Picchu-Ollantaytambo-Cusco:
I love the early morning feel to a place, quiet and serene. I arrived at the bus station early enough to be near the front of the queue and wondered how early did the rest of the people got there. Junior joined me not long after and we rode one of the first buses up to the site. Once we made our way in to the site, he showed me around and shared with me the history of the site including what I could do while I explore the place on my own.

After the tour around the viewing point, it was time to say goodbye to Junior. I gave him a big hug and thank him for all his support and services for the entire trip, it was one of the most profound and impactful experiences of my life thus far. As always, still watching out for me, before he left he reminded me of the bus and train that I need to get to make sure I get to Ollantaytambo for the shuttle back to Cusco.

It didn’t take long for the site to be filled with people and the mysterious feel of the place slowly vanishes from my senses. It didn’t help when there’s a bunch of confounded nuisance youngsters swearing loudly in a sacred place. I was wondering why they were even there. I made my way out from the crowded viewing point and head towards the Sun Gate.

Quiet uphill trek with the occasional group of trekkers heading back down and along the way I met Kelly, a wonderful well travelled gentleman from the States. I decided to walk slowly and conversed instead of cruising up because my legs were in chilling mode. We chatted about life from politics to culture and everything in between. We helped each other take photos and after chilling out at the top, I decided to head down on my own.

Arriving at the main site, it was almost suffocating with people. I weave my way through to quiet areas to take in the essence of the place and the civilisation that was there before. By the time I was ready to leave, there was alight drizzle and it was threatening a downpour, this was my queue to catch the bus. Once I was on the bus, it started raining cats and dogs…phew!

Once back in town, I went to collect my bag and had lunch before heading to the train station. Kelly was settled in one corner of the train station when I arrived and I joined him in waiting for the train, and we chatted until I had to leave to catch my train. The journey to Ollantaytambo was pleasant and the transfer to the shuttle was easy enough. I was in a minibus with the Bamba Inka trail group that left the same day as I did, led by Chino. The bus ride was nice and short, got us back when there was still a little bit of daylight left of the day.

It was an incredible four-day journey. I knew I had to make something out of it and it surpassed whatever expectations I have, and it was high expectation since I was told it’s one of the best trails in the world by many people. I came out of it richer in life and in spirit. I’m looking forward to my trip back to Peru, fingers crossed June or July 2019.

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