Argentina: Bariloche-El Calafate

~10th January 2019~

Crossing border to Argentina was relatively simple, much simpler than the many other border crossings I’ve done over the last few months in Latin America. Our next stop was Bariloche, a ski resort in the winter and thankfully many things to do in the summer. The Seven Lakes route along the way provided the beautiful view of the lakes and mountains at every corner, made it one of the most picturesque drive day thus far.

We arrived at Periko’s, hostel we stayed in, early enough to figure out what we want to do for the next two full day. There was a lot of information available so it was easy to figure out what to do for the next two days. Looking at the map of the town and the different viewpoints available, a circuit around the nearby Parque Llao Llao seemed reasonable for day one with walking, cycling and kayaking or paddle boarding on the itinerary.

~11th January 2019~

A few people decided to pop along, so we have a group to set off together making use of one bus pass. An early start with Cerro Campanario viewpoint as the first stop. Known for its 360 degrees view of the beautiful surrounding, recognised by UNESCO, the hike up and the downhill run was fun and perfect as a warm up for the day.

I can get used to this, view of mountains and lakes, and doing something different every day because there are so much to do and explore. I found that since the Salkantay trek, my heart and spirit just switches over to reflect, reinvigorate and remember the blessings that nature brings and the grace I have in my life. I felt the need at times to pinch myself to make sure all of this are real and that I’m not dreaming.

We headed over to the bike rental store about a kilometre down the road to do the Circuit Chico, a 27km circuit with up and downhill run on the road through the park. Morgane and I decided to get the deal for bike and kayak, Annie joined later when we completed the circuit earlier that we expected. It took us two hours to complete it, which is half the time the rental store estimated. The look on the face of the guys there were of shock when we told them.

Annie and I were cycling together so we decided to cycle down to the lake since it’s still early. One hour of interesting kayaking cos we decided to kayak across from the first to the second viewpoint instead of staying close to the shore, paddling against the wind and waves. Morgane came later when we were finishing and we cycled back to return the bike, planned to meet up later to head back to town.

We found a quaint little cafe for a quick late lunch, because we were starving, before heading to the bus station. Table with a view and a delicious cheese and ham toast, what could be better. The busses that came by were jam packed when it got to the bus stop where we were. So, we waited, walked, tried hitch hiking and finally a taxi to take us back to town. We later found out that the busses are busy because it was peak period for boats coming back from their trip and the busses start their route near or at the port. It wasn’t cheap to get back even though it was spread between the three of us. In my head I was thinking, ‘none of these nonsense tomorrow and just use my legs’.

~12th January 2019~

Bryan mentioned his walk to Cerro Otto and it sounds like something nice and relaxing to do with no hassle of public transport. On the second day, I set off with Dee and Annie for a walk to the foot of Cerro Otto to take the teleferico up to the top then walk down to the chocolate museum for a treat. We stopped to have lunch after the downhill walk at a secluded quiet beach area spotted by Annie. The splashing of the waves muted the noise of the traffic just a few meters away from us.

When we finally got to the museum, we saw Emma, Lisa and Morgane. The hot chocolate at the cafe reminds me of the hot chocolate in Italy, thick like melted chocolate. The museum changed its English guided tour time so we decided to skip the museum and go next door to Cerro Vieja ski lift to ride the tobogān downhill instead. It was just as fun as I remembered it the last time I did this with Alex.

So far so good for the first destination in Argentina and the only thing about the country is it’s annoying ATM that charges extortionate fee with tiny limit of the money for each withdrawal but the US dollar exchange rate is good so note to self, bring USD for Argentina.

~13th January 2019~

A long drive day ahead of us coupled with the first camping night for those of us who joined the trip in Santiago. It was kind of a bush camp, just in a farmland owned by two doctors with a caretaker looking after the farm. I have a super camping partner, Dee, a seasoned camper from Scotland. Here we learnt how setup our tents, what to do for dining and cleaning to make sure that we leave no waste or trace. It was nice valley, peaceful and quiet.

~14th January 2019~

An early start with quite a full on day with quite a few kilometres to cover including a visit to Cueva de los Manos. It was breakfast, then learn how to take the tent down, pack up and go.

Cave of the Hands (I think), Cueva de los Manos is an archeological mystery. The researchers are still trying to figure out what the significant or reasons for the local indigenous people back then to make a negative hand prints on the wall of the caves. The paint was spitted and blown from the mouth towards the hand that was placed on the wall instead of just paint on hand and place on the wall. With the negative handprint, the features on the palm are non existence and made it even more harder to figure out whether the prints are from the same person or different people.

We camped at a municipal campsite in Gabernador Gregores, a small lovely little campsite with all the facilities we need. It was time for my cook group to make dinner with a mega task to feed 23 people with sausage stew and rice, taking into consideration we have two vegetarians and one gluten free (who was on our group, hence the rice). The stew was a hit with the cold evening then it was shower and bed as the long drive day started to take a toll on all of us.

~15th January 2019~

Early start with preparing breakfast for the day, scramble eggs and the usual toast with hot drinks. Eat, clean and then pack up for another day of driving to El Calafate. It’s a shorter drive and it’ll be hostel, Del Glaciar Pioneros, for the next two nights.

We arrived relatively early, enough time for us to settle in and get ready for a group night activities, ice bar and empanadas lesson plus dinner. The ice bar was insane with its crazy rules, 25mins with unlimited drinks and one bartender. So, imagine the chaos with around 30-35 people at the bar trying to make the best out of the 25mins.

It was interesting trying to head back to the hostel restaurant for the empanadas making lesson and dinner after the short drink fest. I was surprisingly sober after four different drinks in me when usually I’ll be feeling the alcohol effect after one drink.

A few days ago, we started a murder mystery game on the truck where all of us pick a location, weapon and person from hats to match killer to victim. Just before the empanadas making lesson, Lewis killed me with a sleeping bag in the hostel restaurant. The first one to die! I could have killed my victim if I’ve known that the person doesn’t need to take hold of the weapon but hey, at least I don’t have to scheme anymore.

After having our fill of empanadas and pizzas with plenty of drinks to go around, it was time for bed for an early start to Perito Moreno Glacier, a included tour on the trip.

~16th January 2016~

Perito Moreno glacier is was one glaciers that is stabile and with no receding signs, apparently. It was an amazing sight to behold with the roar of ice falling into the water. The tour started with a short drive from the hostel with a stop at an estancia with creepy stuffed animals, simply because it wasn’t made well, and a beautiful landscape before we head over to the Los Glacieros National Park. We had clear sky for view of the mountains and where the source of the glacier is.

A short walk through the protected forest, we arrived at the port where we buy the ticket for the boat trip to get closer to the glacier. For me, there was just too many people on the boat to really enjoy the view with some just pushing and shoving to get ahead.

The last stop of the day led us to the main centre in Perito Moreno, with facilities and options for walks with view points for the other side of the glacier. I decided to take some time to just stop and watch nature at work instead of speeding through the different walking circuits available. No matter what the guide said about the glacier not receding, the question that played over and over in my head was what is happening in the crevasses and underneath the glacier. Do we really know?

Dee and I decided to head back to town, ATM and window shopping before stopping at the bakery round the corner from the hostel to enjoy a coffee and a few treats. The evenings are usually the same when we’re leaving the next day, dinner then pack and this time for bush camp tomorrow night. Fun!?